Before planting your raised bed garden, refer to tables 1 and 2. Table 1 lists inter- and intra-row vegetable plant spacings developed specifically for 40-inch-wide beds. If your beds are equipped with buried drip irrigation, determine the location of the emitter lines prior to marking rows. Refer to Table 2 (A and B) for the proper emitter line placement for various row spacings.
Several techniques are available for marking planting rows. The oldest method used to ensure a straight row is a taut string between two stakes. The template row marker is a modification of this simple technique and is ideal for quickly and accurately marking multiple rows per bed.
The template row marker consists of a matching set of wooden templates and a rope marker. Each template is equipped with an array of screws (or nails) that correspond to the location of a row on the bed. Use the calibration guide in Figure 1 and a permanent marker to properly locate and label each screw on the templates. Leave 1/4 inch of the shank exposed when inserting the screws into the templates so the rope can be attached.
When ready to mark rows, position the templates at both ends of the bed. To prevent movement, use rebar stakes to anchor each template to the bed surface. Remember to center the template on the bed before anchoring.
Attach the looped ends of the rope (clothesline works well) to the corresponding screws on each template. When attached, the rope should be taut. Lifting and releasing, or "popping", the rope several times will leave an indention in the soil surface, which marks the rows and doubles as a furrow for hand-sown small seeds.
If you have an exceptionally large garden and desire a quicker mothod of marking rows, consider constructing a rolling row marker. Our marker, similar to that cited by Eliot Coleman in his book "The New Organic Grower", can be constructed for less than $40. It uses a series of wheels to mark each row simultaneously as it is pulled over the bed surface.
The Noble Foundation's rolling marker consists of a series of eight 7 5/8-inch-diameter wheels mounted on a 3-foot-long piece of 5/8-inch-diameter threaded rod. The wheels are cut from 1/2-inch plywood and mounted on the threaded rod axle through their centered 5/8-inch-diameter holes. Tightened nuts on either side of the wheels prevent them from moving off their designated settings.
The ability to lock two or more wheels in any position along the length of the axle simply by tightening and loosening nuts is what makes this design so versatile. As with the template row marker, the rolling marker must be calibrated for use on 40-inch-wide beds. Use the calibration guide and a permanent marker to locate and label wheel settings on the face of the axle body.
Consider using a wood preservative to extend the life of your rolling row marker and minimize wheel warping. For extra protection, apply a coat of polyurethane, especially to the wheels.
When equipped with crosswires, the rolling row marker can be used to mark planting locations in the rows. Mounting two crosswires opposite each other on the forward edges of the wheels enables the rolling marker to crosscheck each row every 12 inches. The straight pieces of No. 10 galvanized wire are attached to the wheels by means of eye screws. "Opened" eye screws inserted into the outer surface of one of the outside wheels are used to lock in the crosswires, which can be removed simply by pushing the bent ends out from under the screws and sliding them free.
To ensure straight rows, keep the rolling marker centered on the bed. Try using the bed borders as a visual guide. If the borders are straight, your rows will be straight.
If you are a neatness freak, you will want to space plants uniformly in the rows. Marking planting sites with a measuring tape is fine in small gardens, but can quickly become a chore in larger ones. To make this job quick and easy, consider constructing a plant locator.
A plant locator consists of four pieces of 1-inch by 2-inch treated lath and a few nuts and bolts. Our plant locator is calibrated for plant spacings of 12, 18 and 24 inches. It works well on both unmulched and plastic mulched beds. Once you have used this tool, you will never consider using a measuring tape again. The legs of the locator accurately mark planting sites when the device is walked down a row.
If you are looking for a quick and easy way to seed your beds, consider purchasing a push planter. Several models are priced for the home and market gardener. The Earthway Garden Seeder, priced around $100, is the most popular. It comes equipped with several seed plates, giving it the capability of planting both small and large seed. Because of its lightweight design, the seedbed must be in good tilth and free of clods and plant debris, which have a tendency to ball up in front of the furrow opener and push the seeder out of the soil.
The Cole Planet Jr. vegetable seeder, priced around $500, is designed with the market gardener in mind. The steel construction allows it to take plenty of abuse and increases its weight, permitting this push planter to perform well in soil containing greater amounts of debris.
For best results sowing small-seeded crops such as carrot, lettuce, onion, radish and spinach consider purchasing a Glaser seeder, which works only on finely tilled, debris-free soil surfaces. The single row model is available for around $125.
Contact local garden centers or consult mail order garden supply catalogs for availability of these planters and others.
When setting plants through plastic mulch, use a bulb planter for preparing holes for standard size transplants. For plants grown in 4-inch or larger containers, use a post hole digger or a similar sized tool to prepare planting holes. Keeping the forward edge of these tools sharp will ensure a precise cut with minimal stretching and tearing of the plastic.
To get your transplants off to a good start, water them with a soluble fertilizer solution high in phosphorous.
For more information on scheduling planting dates for your area, contact your local county extension office.