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How do I control weeds in newly established bermudagrass pasture?
For pre-emergent weed control, we can use Diuron after sprigging and before the sprigs emerge. Diuron is not labeled for seeded bermudagrass or post-emergence. Once the bermudagrass emerges, we usually like to get several leaves and/or several inches of growth before using any weed control. At this point, there are three common options. Grazing can be used if the weeds are palatable. Selective herbicide can be used for broadleaf weeds. Mowing can be used for most weeds to eliminate shading and promote spreading of the bermudagrass.
Other important factor is to ensure proper fertility. Be sure phosphorus, potassium, and pH are at proper levels or suplemented before planting. Also, wait for bermudagrass emergence before applying nitrogen (N) and do not apply more than 50 pounds per acre actual N, as excess will stimulate weed growth. Once the bermudagrass does start to grow and spread, then add more N to make the bermudagrass more competitive.
Should I use seed or sprigs to establish bermudagrass pasture?
In general, sprigged varieties such as Coastal, Midland 99 and Tifton 85 have more forage production potential than seeded varieties. Therefore, for maximum production, a high-yielding sprigged variety should probably be used. However, seeded varieties may be more convenient to establish on small acreages or locations where it would be difficult to get a sprigger across, such as on pond dams. Whichever you use, be sure to review variety test information for your area such as www.noble.org/Ag/Forage/01ForageYieldsBgrass
www.noble.org/Ag/Research/Articles/Bermudagrass2001
www.noble.org/Ag/Research/Articles/ForageVariety2002
www.noble.org/Ag/Research/Articles/ForageNotesBermudagrass
www.noble.org/Ag/Research/Articles/CoolSeasonPerennials2004
or your local land grant university.
What do I need to improve my overgrazed nativegrass pastures following the drought?
For the long-term health of the land, it is critical to stock conservatively and allow pastures time to rest during the active part of the growing season. We have talked with many producers who seem to want to re-establish their native grass pastures or plant an introduced grass like bermudagrass or plains bluestem instead. While this may be the right choice in some situations, it is more often not. Fertilizer prices have drastically increased, and there appears to be little relief in sight. Unless you have an area that is highly productive (i.e, port loam bottomland), it is probably best to keep it in native grass and simply manage properly what you already have. For more information about this topic, go to: www.noble.org/Ag/Forage/ImprovePasture/index.html
What's the difference between wheat, rye, oats and ryegrass for forage production in the southern Great Plains?While all are commonly planted for winter pasture forage or food plots, they are all in a different genera. Wheat (Triticum aestivum), rye (Secale cereale) and oats (Avena sativa) are all cereal grains, but ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) does not produce grain. Management and total forage production for wheat, rye and oats will be similar, but the timing of forage production differs. Rye matures earliest, producing half its total forage before March 1. Rye is better suited to sandy soils, but less palatable than the other three forages. Oats are the most palatable and produce forage later in the spring than wheat or rye, but are the least winter hardy and can freeze out. Wheat is somewhere in the middle between rye and oats. Ryegrass can be planted in the fall, just like wheat, oats, and rye, but can also be planted as late as early February. It produces forage as late as June and tolerates wet soils. Ryegrass and rye also are the best re-seeders, producing volunteer stands in subsequent years if they are allowed to go to seed.
Is it OK to make a late hay cutting on my bermudagrass?
In most instances, no. You can maintain healthier plants if you forego the last cutting and allow for maximum storage of plant reserves, especially following periods of prolonged drought. This helps to build healthy root systems and protects the plants from further stress such as early frost and extreme cold. It can also decrease weeds by leaving more cover on the ground. However, once the plant has gone dormant after frost, you can graze the standing bermudagrass to a 3-inch stubble height without causing damage.
Can you look at johnsongrass and tell if prussic acid is present?
No. Prussic acid in johnsongrass is an elusive and deadly compound that manifests itself as cyanide when livestock graze it. We repeatedly hear people say there is a white substance that appears on the plant when it is poisonous. This is a false correlation. The white substance is actually a wax or cutin and is not toxic. It occurs on many plant species, even ones that don't produce prussic acid, as a natural part of the cuticle. There is no definite way to look at johnsongrass plants and know if they will be poisonous. Quick tests or laboratory tests can be run, but the plant can change from the time the test is run to the time the livestock graze the plant. Therefore, you should always be cautious anytime the plant is stressed due to drought, frost, etc. The only way to make johnsongrass "safe" from prussic acid is to bale it, because prussic acid dissipates during the curing process.
How many days grazing do I have left in my pasture, or how many animals can I run for a specified period of time?
To assist you in making these calculations, I refer you to our Web site, where we have a couple of tools that will offer guidance in making these calculations. They are a Reserve Herd Day Calculator and a Carrying Capacity Calculator.
I think my bermudagrass is dead. What should I do?
Bermudagrass has the wonderful survival trait of going dormant during periods of unfavorable weather. Often times during cold or dry weather, bermudagrass will go dormant but will recover quickly when conditions are more favorable. Therefore, the first step may be to wait and see if the bermudagrass recovers. You can also dig up some roots and see if they still appear to be healthy. They should be white to yellow, moist on the inside and flexible. If water can be applied affordably, irrigate thoroughly and deeply about once per week during the growing season and about once per month during the winter. One way to help bermudagrass manage weather stress is to apply appropriate fertility, especially potassium, according to soil test recommendations.
Should I fertilize or weed spray my pasture?
This question is really too complex to answer briefly. More details about the forage are necessary to determine the right answer. Some of these details are: what type of grass it is, what condition it is in, what the soil test results are, what weeds are present, how the forage is used and what other factors, like aesthetics, might be more important than production and economics. There are some general rules that can apply, however. Generally, native grass does not respond economically to fertilizer. Generally, weed spray in native grass is also not economical and is addressing symptoms of larger problems. Generally, in introduced grasses, for every pound of weeds controlled, an additional pound of grass is produced. However, there are always exceptions to these rules. For further reading, go to:
To Fertilize and Spray For Weed Control, Or Not To, That Is The Question
To Fertilize or Not to Fertilize???
Stretch Your Input Dollars
Tips for Coping With The High Cost Of Fertilizer
From Weeds to Forbs What forage species should I grow for my cows?
This, like many other questions, is complex. Many factors need to be considered, such as how will the grass be used, are you willing to fertilize, do you need winter or summer forage, will it be hayed or grazed, etc. However, there are some general points to consider.
Bermudagrass is a durable warm-season forage with high production potential. It is best suited to lighter textured soils. It responds well to high levels of fertility and management.
Old world bluestem is another perennial warm-season forage. It is more suited to heavier-textured soils. Native grasses include many species, but in southern Oklahoma and north Texas, they usually consist of little bluestem, big bluestem, Indiangrass, swithchgrass, and sideoats grama. These grasses are obviously well adapted since they evolved here. Typically, they do not require fertility. They can be very productive, but do require management.
Ryegrass is a cool-season annual grass that reseeds itself very well, and therefore returns year after year. Its productive season is from about mid-March until mid-June. It responds to fertility and is suited to most soils.
Crabgrass is a warm-season annual that also reseeds itself. It does well on light textured soils. It also works very well as a double crop with rye or other small grains.
Alfalfa is a legume that is known as the queen of forages. It can be very productive but needs good, deep, well-drained soil. Since it is a legume, it does not require nitrogen, but can require high amounts of other nutrients. Typically a stand lasts four to seven years.
For further reading see:
It's Time to Think About Warm-Season Grasses
Looking For The "Silver Bullet" In Our Forage Arsenal
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