
Horticulture: July 1998
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The past several months have been extremely dry in southern Oklahoma and the
thermometer has been pushing 100°F quite regularly. Considering summer doesn't
officially begin for another three weeks (I'm writing this article June 1),
memories of 1980 are beginning to haunt me. If you lived in these parts during
1980, no doubt the summer left quite an impression on your mind. Every living
thing suffered through one of the hottest summers on record.
Could such an extreme summer happen in 1998? No one knows for sure but we do
know something about how plants react to high temperature and what can be done
to lessen heat related stress.
Blossom drop and resulting lack of fruit set on tomato, pepper and bean plants
during the summer is most likely due to high temperatures. The fruit that does
set will usually be small, contain few seeds and generally be of poorer
quality.
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Symptoms to Look for in Cool Season
Vegetables Maturing During Hot Weather |
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| Crop |
Symptom |
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| Beet |
Ring pattern in root |
| Cabbage |
Heads fail to form |
| Carrot |
Sweetless roots |
| Cauliflower |
"Ricey" Heads |
| Greens |
Tough, bitter leaves |
| Radish |
Pithy, off-flavor |
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| Plant Stress Factor |
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| Soil Temperature above 90°F |
Excessive Pruning |
| Inadequate Moisture |
Inadequate Nutrition |
| Insects |
Excessive Fertilizer |
| Disease |
Pesticide |
| Physical Injury |
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Fruit can scorch if subjected to direct sunlight. Tomato fruit fail to develop a
deep red color when exposed to high temperature during ripening. Sweetcorn ears
maturing during scorching weather are often poorly filled. Potatoes can rot if
left in soils having temperatures above 90°F. High temperatures increase the
rate of ripening fruit, consequently decreasing the storage life. Melons,
cucumbers, sweet potato, okra and eggplant are the most tolerant vegetables to
high temperature. However, persistent temperatures above 100°F can reduce yield
and quality in these vegetables.
To lessen the adverse effect of high temperatures on the food garden, begin by
selecting heat tolerant varieties. The smaller "cherry" tomatoes are more
reliable in hot weather compared to the larger slicing types. Use a shade cloth
to reduce air temperature several degrees and reduce incidence of sunburn.
Water vapor exiting leaf surfaces (transpiration) cools the leaf and the air in
the immediate vicinity of the plant. Therefore, avoid excessive pruning of
foliage. Maintain a uniform water supply to avoid moisture stress. Mulch beds
to reduce evaporation from the soil surface.
Ornamental plantings aren't immune to the effects of high temperature stress.
High temperature in combination with drought can cause yellowing (chlorosis)
and scorching (necrosis) of foliage. Cottonwood trees react to hot dry weather
by dropping their leaves.
Catalpa wilt very easily despite irrigation. Maple, Bradford pear, Dogwood and
Flowering quince tend to retain their leaves but often show heat scorch. During
hot weather continue to irrigate and fertilize trees as usual. As long as
50-75% of the tree leaves remain green there shouldn't be a problem.
In closing, let me leave you with this thought. During periods of high
temperature, any plant that has been subjected to other types of stress can be
expected to perform poorly or even die. The key to plant survival during hot
weather is to prevent or suppress other types of stress.
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